Monday, February 24, 2014

Netanya

There are moments in one's life when he need not describe how he is feeling- his wedding day, the birth of a child, unbearable sickness. At all these occasions, his emotions, be they extraordinarily ineffable or painfully obvious, are visible from a mile away. Inquiring would be superfluous, if not outright insulting. Such was the scene as I disembarked at Ben-Gurion International Airport in Israel on Friday. While I hadn't slept in days, I wasn't the least bit tired. Excitement was all but oozing out of my pores. It had been over three years since my last visit and not a day went by without longing to return. Judah HaLevi, the famous Jewish poet and philosopher, had already expressed my exilic sentiments almost nine centuries earlier: "My heart is in the east, and I in the uttermost west."

So, naturally, finally being back was surreal. After quickly picking up an Israeli SIM card for my phone, I immediately hailed a cab for Netanya. Shabbat was just a few hours away and public transportation had already ceased. Appearances aside, Israel's lack of "separation of church and state" and I don't always get along. Lucky for me, though, the cab driver had heard of Netanya and was willing to take me there. Two friends from NYU, Cynthia and Gal, live up there and graciously invited me for the weekend. Though my trip is technically for business -- at least that's what I told the lady at customs -- that doesn't mean I can't visit some old friends in the process.

The cab driver, Cobi, was a giant of a man. Towering in elevation and monumental in girth, he was the closest to a Wookie I've ever met. And, much like Chewbacca, he had a heart of gold. In between last-minute calls to friends and family, Cobi pointed out all the sights visible from Route 2. I'll give you the short version- lots of grass and an occasional bus stop. I arrived in Netanya with just enough time to shower, which turned out to be the best shower I've had in months. In Rwanda, the showers are either freezing or gross. Usually both. So, feeling cleaner than Kigali, I was finally ready to start Shabbat.

It was also the first time in a while I was able to pray in an actual synagogue. The locals were very friendly and welcoming, excited to have a new guest. Without fail, the two questions I always get asked in Israeli synagogues: 1) Ah, the United States. You went to Yeshiva University?, and 2) So, when are you moving to Israel? And none of my answers ever seem satisfactory. Right before I left, the gentleman behind me, whose name was also Michael, invited me to accompany him early the next morning to a Talmud class.

The class turned out to be one of my favorite parts of the weekend. It had been so long since I engaged in a deep, meaningful dialogue about Jewish traditions, and much longer since I had opened a Talmud. The text we were studying dealt with which laws apply only to Jews and which laws also apply to non-Jews, as well as how we derive and enforce these statutes. In a broader sense, the text provided a gateway for how Jews should interact with the greater world around them: using our specific traditions and customs to personally serve our Creator, while promoting justice and morality throughout all of humanity. These ideas are especially relevant for my year in Rwanda, where the JDC has tasked me with the responsibility of using my Jewish background to help heal a fractured world.

After the class, I got to speak to Michael a bit more during services (sidebar: some of my most productive conversations have taken place while others are talking to God). He showed me his damaged arm, the remnant of a suicide bombing a number of years ago. This segued smoothly into the amazing feats his children are accomplishing in elite units of the military. Seeing his face shine with pride reminded me of Anne Heyman bragging about her 500 children at Agahozo-Shalom. Finally, Michael insisted that I join him for Shabbat lunch. I'm not usually one to turn down kugel, but I already had plans with Cynthia and Gal.

On Shabbat afternoon, I walked up and down the Netanya coastline- breathing the salty air, taking in the view, and readjusting to the presence of white people. Overall, Shabbat was relaxing, exciting, and all I could have asked for.

Then early Sunday morning, I made the trip down to Jerusalem for my JDC seminar. All of the Global Jewish Service Corps members are spending the week in Israel, engaged in workshops and site visits. The seminar provides us with the opportunity to connect with one another, continue developing a sense of community, build valuable leadership skills, deepen our understanding of the JDC and issues facing the global Jewish world, reflect, and recharge. The days are packed, but each activity looks fascinating. And what better place to be than the Jewish homeland?

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